Hello folks, just installed a shower head in my clawfoot tub for guests… I noticed condensation goes on to my drywall behind the faucet part- (since there is only a foot or less between wall and shower head). Hardware clerk showed me tiles (70$ for 4 small tiles- I’d need about 20!!) Handiman suggested getting some of the cheap plastic people use in windows for privacy? on the wall? Anyone have any good cost efficient ideas to protect the wall from condensation? It’s too late to install a fan in ceiling but may do that for next season… (I only rent 2 months a year)- due to demand here is only for 2 months.
If you go to an actual tile store, they almost always have seconds, broken boxes of tiles (the tiles themselves aren’t broken- they are just incomplete boxes) and odds and ends where I’m sure you can find enough to cover that space. I have done lots of tiling projects with those tiles they have in the back, that are cheap.
Or paint the wall with waterproof paint, which will be a lot less work than tiling.
And if you’ve never tiled before, it could turn out looking awful. I love tiling and am glad I learned how to do it, but you need to practice first on a project that won’t matter if you make a mess of it. Nice tiling requires the prep work of measuring, drawing level lines on a wall job, using spacers so the grout lines are even, and then grouting after the tiles are glued in place.
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I would do tile and take the opportunity to add color and design to the shower. If you’re in the states, check out the clearance section at Home Depot. Sometimes you can get really nice tiles at a really low price.
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Yes - I think I have waterproof paint there but maybe I will paint an extra layer- guests coming in a week so no time to learn how to tile… perhaps for next year… there is very little room to move- less than 2 inches between tub and wall… do you think the frosted window covering plastic is a bad idea? wondering about the toxicity of it- combined iwth glue- being steamed? thought of a small mirror below shower head for the steam to collect on it… versus going straight to wall.[quote=“muddy, post:2, topic:61151, full:true”]
If you go to an actual tile store, they almost always have seconds, broken boxes of tiles (the tiles themselves aren’t broken- they are just incomplete boxes) and odds and ends where I’m sure you can find enough to cover that space. I have done lots of tiling projects with those tiles they have in the back, that are cheap.
Or paint the wall with waterproof paint, which will be a lot less work than tiling.
And if you’ve never tiled before, it could turn out looking awful. I love tiling and am glad I learned how to do it, but you need to practice first on a project that won’t matter if you make a mess of it. Nice tiling requires the prep work of measuring, drawing level lines on a wall job, using spacers so the grout lines are even, and then grouting after the tiles are glued in place.
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will look into this for next year I guess… good idea. however in a few years i may replace tub with shower for when i become a little old lady, lol. wonder if the tile will be hard to take off?
Muddy if you have experience with clawfoot showers (mine is terribly rickety- cost a fortune- 500$ for it and install)- I used curtain liners with magnets- as was afraid curtains would be too rigid… possibly buy 3 liners this season? the thing is so darn rickety I don’t want to add too much weight to the ring holding it in place… the liners seemed to stick to the body though- so not great…
Here’s your problem- that installation is done wrong- the curved part of the shower head should be over, not under the curtain rod. And the wall support needs to be lower, not up against the rod. If you change it to that, the curtain will be able to be drawn all around behind the shower head and support. And a second wall support halfway down will solve the flimsiness issue.
If you change how the shower head is mounted, the problem of the condensation on the wall will cease to exist.
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Thanks Muddy- I will have to give that some thought- my brain is so busy- I will have to go over it when I’m not busy rushing to get my place in order.Unfortunately I think the way the guy installed it- there is not much room for change -however yes a 2nd wall support -however I can figure out how to do that… sounds like a very good idea…
I have a clawfoot tub in my rental, I just get the shower curtain liners with magnets in the bottom and have them go on both sides. Where they start by the shower head, have the liners overlap on one ring, to keep them there.
I’ve had this Airbnb going for 8 years, with no water damage.
oh thanks- i was so stressed about this… yes it seems the liners are light enough with magnets although they can cling to you- since its such a small space- (any idea on how to stop this)?- the magnets work but not great. I thought actual shower curtains would be too heavy for the oval ring hanging from the ceiling and perhaps too bulky for the tub?.. Had to cut the curtains they come in 72" -luckily the magnets on this one allowed me to cut to 68" so they weren’t too long in the tub. I tried putting a 3rd liner on today so there would be more curtain - but it was too much curtain -plus that ring is extremely rickety. Once my 2 month season will have to ask a plumber - and see how it could be stabilized a bit more. Afraid some guy will yank the curtain and pull the whole thing down!
Do you have a fan in your ceiling? I only have a window to air out the place at the moment. Adding a fan would require tearing apart my ceiling and adding a vent outside- not sure I want to do this at the moment. (never know what 1940’s houses may have up in the rafters?!!)
I like the idea of overlapping a ring- so do you mean you leave the opening of the curtain (not at the top by the shower head)- but at the other end of the tub? - so that people can enter from the back -oppositte side? Never thought of that- that’s a great idea…
thanks again!
Yes I leave it open on the back, that’s how people get in anyhow I think, not directly under the water.
I get fabric liners either the magnets and they don’t cling. They are easy to throw in the wash, as well.
I do have a fan in mine, I’m sure that makes a difference.
I guess it depends on the configuration of the bathroom fixtures, but it seems to me that a shower curtain opening should be on the front side of the tub, not at the front or back. Most people get in a bathtub from the side, don’t they?
And that’s why I suggested that the shower head support rod be moved to the outside of the curtain support, hooked over the bar, rather than inside of it. Then the curtain can be pulled all the way around behind the shower head.
thanks banana! putting the 2 curtains on one hook at the front is a great stop gap measure!! I think it will totally save my wall- can’t believe I didn’t think about that.!! what an easy fix! In the fall when my bookings end- I will then see if my plumber can perhaps put shower head on outside and add wall supports. I tried adding a 3rd curtain yesterday but it was too much curtain in a small tub plus the extra weight on the ring above made me nervous… so anyhow thanks for that saving tip!
oh i see what you mean now… I may have to wait til sept to ask my plumber to figure out how to fix this and put shower pipe on outside and add another wall support… that makes sense!
in the meantime hooking the 2 curtains together at the front is a great idea to get me through for now…
thanks!