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Noise complaints on one half of duplex

thanks, yes I’ve seen them, but don’t think that would work for us as we need to cover entire wall.

The wall in question sounds like it would already have fiberglass batts in place (r13 or r19). So, it would not be possible to “blow anything” into it.
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You could remove the drywall, install rock wool (mineral wool) then replace the walls. This can even be done one small section at a time. As I understand it, this is a garage wall? So, most of this could actually be done in a day including 2 coats of fast drying drywall compound
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Rock wool is very dense stuff - it needs to be cut to size and gently stuffed into place. This is part of why it is so effective.
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Mass loaded vinyl will “help” but the db attenuation is “just ok” and I recall it being pricey. Blackout curtains are pretty inexpensive and actually do quite a bit more than one might expect. Note that they are available in extra long lengths of like 92"

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we planned on only adding insulation to the internal walls of the house that are near the boundary of the guest suite. those wouldn’t have insulation but would be allownig sound transfer currently.

since yeah, it seems like the guest suite already has insulated walls, I’m hoping adding the solid doors + insulation + sound panels on the doors + MLV will be enough.

If not, I agree, tearing down those walls that are direct boundaries of the guest suite and stuffing with rockwool might be the last thing we can do.

Also, I watched a video this morning where they showed you can actually “inject” the cellulose blown insulation into walls with existing fiber batts. Blow Cellulose in Demonstration Wall.flv - YouTube

So that’s another idea is to just inject more insulation into the already insulated walls. Think it would work?

I dont want to have to rip down the walls because it’s a lot of work, drywall guys are expensive, taping, mudding, texturing (we have textured walls) and then repainting.

Hoping I can get away with not doing that.

Cellulose is poor at sound dampening so skip that. Short-term go with your current plan for sealing around that door plus sound panels and see what you get.
If you have no bought the MLV I would skip that too as it is not cheap and is “meh” at reducing frequencies below 500 Hz.
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You can always do more and add more.

Really? My understanding was that air is the cause of sound travel, so cellulose in the wall would take up the space and prevent that?

The builder went in today and put the slab door in with Kerfed weatherstripping all around to seal the gaps. Tomorrow those sound panels go on the door (door only). You think that will be significant enough? It sucks because currently I’m living 2000 miles away from the house, we go in two weeks and I wanted to do the insulation at that time because after that I wouldn’t be going back till January and I don’t want to have to do an emergency trip out there due to sound issues. I didn’t buy the MLV or insulation yet!

Here’s the sound panels I bought:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R18K1ML/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=A1JRGOOZPGHORX&psc=1


Here’s the updated door

This was the original hollow core door with no weatherstripping. After the guy complained about the dryer I added a simple doorsweep that apparently didn’t do much.

It’s the opposite, to some extent. I’m not familiar with all kinds of insulation, but fiberglass insulation is full of air. It isn’t something solid. It is the solid surfaces which transmit sound- the wooden floors, the wooden studs, etc.
Straw bale construction, for instance, is a good sound blocker because there is air between the straw particles.
Soft furnishing, like padded curtains, rugs, etc, all absorb sound so it’s less noisy.

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The question becomes “what will be enough to do the trick”. What is being done now will be “sound reduction”, not soundproofing. The initial measures you suggest may “do it” or may just be a really good start. It is not possible to know as of yet but this seems worth the effort and relatively minor expense without more dramatic efforts.
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Those panels are likely to help also but please note their rating is possibly deceptive. They are supposedly rated for NRC 0.95. HOWEVER what that means in practice is they are probably really good at 500 Hz and above and “meh” at 125 and 250 Hz (lower registers).
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LOTS of materials readily handle 500 Hz and above. That is the easy part. Still, if they can reduce 10-20 db at the lower frequencies they COULD be enough. Time will tell. Lower frequency sound (50 350 Hz), if that is your real challenge after this, would require materials that are very proven to dramatically reduce those.

Can you lock the door to the laundry room and take away laundry as part of your main house AirBnB offering? Then both doors will stay closed, the dryer won’t be in use and could help…

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Dann, I actually didn’t consider this as am option.

I will have to think on this more.

From your guys experience, how important is a W/D for revenue generation? For a 3bedroom?
Maybe AirDNA has a filter for amenities so I can see the difference in price?
I personally would never stay anywhere for more than a week at most without a W/D.

But yeah I agree if both doors are shut I bet there is a significant reduction in noise. I added signage around the door and considering a self-closing door hinge for the new door.

Thanks for the advice, what sounds in daily life go lower than 500? Besides the obvious like basey music, footsteps? Doors closing?

What measures besides the doors and those panels do you think are worth doing in your
Opinion? It seems like you think I should bail on the cellulose and MLV which were the only two other things I was gonna do

I agree for longer stays (and especially families), access to a w/d can be preferable but I’d probably just do some searching in your particular market to get comps. I’ve been surprised that many larger homes in my (rural) area do not give access to a w/d for guests. They still seem to be booked up.

Are there wash and fold services nearby or even ones who will pickup? Referring guests to those businesses can be a helpful solution if you don’t provide onsite laundry.

This may help to clarify, though it may not be what you hoped for. There is a TON of sound frequencies (voice, music, etc) that is well below 500 Hz.
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I would start with your current plan (door seal weather-strip gaskets and those sound panels). It is a reasonable start and cost efficient. Again, the goal short-term is not really total soundproofing but simply “reducing db transmission of what is there”. Fingers crossed that initial measures will result in “phew well that is behind us now”.

I think I’d probably go a different direction and target different guests.

I think 3 couples are going to make exponentially more noise than 2 couples, just because they’re busy enjoying each others’ company and having fun. I’d be inclined to shut off the 3rd bedroom (use it to store your linens and what have you). If you’re getting $200 for a one bedroom, I think you could get $400 for two.

We target families and longer stays, so the laundry is important… plus it’s helpful to have it for the turnovers

Walls resonate at low frequencies. Speakers in both units should be isolated from walls and floors.

Appreciate the feedback. Honestly though, this seems like a waste to me?
AirDNA estimates ~335/night for a 3bed and ~235/night for a 2 bed, 167/night for a 1bed (although occupancy decreases from 80s to 70s going from 2bed to 3bed…)

Do you think its unreasonable to enforce a strict quiet hours from 10pm-7am which I have now put in 3 different places in the listings and in a physical printout in the house?
I suspect between the NoiseAware setup, the signage and listing, plus soundproofing changes, this will be enough? Plus now reduced from 8 to 6…

thanks again

Thanks, I keep reading mixed things online about cellulose. You got guys who say that they do nothing, guys who say it worked for them, people who say it did a little…
Perhaps the installation matters. Sounds like you have to pack it tight while you’re filling the cavity.

The problem for me is that not being able to be there, combined with the units being rented booked till December at this time. I sort of think about this from a strategic risk factor.

I will be there for 10 days mid October (leave in 2 weeks).
This gives me 10 days of the main house being unoccupied to do these renovations.
After that, I am not planning on being back till January. House is pretty much booked solid till December after this as well.

If I lived around the corner, and we didn’t already have a booked calendar, I could block off dates and do this sort of “try and see” approach, but I feel like that could backfire, and I could find myself getting bad reviews in late October and all of November and December and then my calendar is booked and I’m in trouble scrambling to do the next thing…

If I go the “overkill” approach, the worst that could happen is I wasted money and still have the issue. If I don’t do overkill and still have issues, I’m facing a legitimate threat to the business by continued bad reviews and refunds. So I sort of weight this as 2k and a few days of work vs an existential threat to half of my business… (the attached guest suite brought in half the revenue in September, our first month operating, although I expect the house to increase 50% revenue as we got reviews and a longer time horizon for bookings)

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